Real talk: I thought ordering grow lights was straightforward. In my first year (2017), I made the classic mistake of prioritizing wattage over spectrum. It looked fine on paper. Then, in Q1 2024, I submitted a $3,200 purchase order for the wrong Gavita fixtures. Straight to the trash? No—worse. We had to expedite a replacement, costing an extra $450 in shipping plus a 1-week delay. Here is what I learned, in 8 FAQs.
1. What is the difference between a Gavita HPS light and a Gavita Pro 1700e LED?
The short answer: It is a choice between legacy heat generation and modern efficiency.
The Gavita HPS lights (like the 1000w DE) are the gold standard for high-intensity discharge lighting. They are powerful, proven, and produce significant heat. The Gavita Pro 1700e LED is a current-generation LED fixture designed to replace that 1000w DE HPS. The LED draws about 645 watts from the wall but delivers comparable PPF (Photosynthetic Photon Flux).
From my perspective, the decision is about your setup. If you already have a cooled greenhouse with high ceilings and need to dump heat, the HPS is workable. If you are building from scratch or have heat concerns (like a sealed indoor room), the 1700e LED saves money on cooling. The HPS fixture is cheaper upfront; the LED is cheaper over 18 months.
2. Is the Gavita Pro 1700e LED worth the premium price?
Here is the thing: I originally thought no. I ordered 12 HPS fixtures because the sticker price was lower. That was the $3,200 mistake.
The HPS required 6-inch ducting, additional fans, and a controller to handle the temperature spike. The installation costs ate up half the savings. After 12 months of operation, the LED units paid back the difference in reduced AC load and higher fixture longevity. Industry standard for fixture lifespan is 50,000+ hours for LEDs versus 10,000-15,000 hours for HPS bulbs. The 1700e LED is a premium product that, in my experience, defines 'quality is the brand image'.
3. Can I mix Gavita HPS and LED fixtures in the same greenhouse?
Technically, yes. Practically, it is a mess.
We tried this for a 3-month trial. The problem was spectral imbalance. Plants under the HPS had a different morphology (taller, different node spacing) than those under the LED. We ended up with a non-uniform harvest. The controller we used (a basic timer setup) could not compensate for the different DLI (Daily Light Integral) requirements.
What about the controllers?
For LED: You need a 0-10V dimming controller. The Gavita Master Controller is designed for this. It handles sunrise/sunset dimming.
For HPS: You typically use a simple on/off relay timer. HPS does not dim well.
Personally, I recommend picking one platform. Mixing them is a rookie mistake that costs yield.
4. When should I use recessed lighting in a grow room? (Wait, what?)
I added this because it is a question nobody asks, but they should. Recessed lighting refers to installation style, not the lamp type. You would use it when you have a drop ceiling or need to minimize headroom. For high-bay applications (standard grow rooms), you do not use recessed. You hang the fixture. The confusion came from a customer who bought a regular fixture when they needed a recessed version for a low-ceiling basement setup. Saved $80 by skipping the correct mount. Ended up spending $400 on a rush custom bracket.
5. Is the Gavita 1700e suitable for a Scandinavian chandelier aesthetic?
I am not joking. I had a query from a client building a high-end 'living room' showroom. They wanted the plant growth capability but with a Scandinavian design aesthetic. The Gavita Pro 1700e is functional, not beautiful. It is a black aluminum heat sink. It is the opposite of a chandelier.
If you ask me, do not install industrial horticulture fixtures in a visible ceiling space without a plan to mask them. The fixture works perfectly for indoor farming, but it wins no design awards.
6. What is the difference between a 'Gavita' and generic lighting?
The difference is the spectrum quality and warranty support.
I compared a budget LED fixture (50% cheaper) against a Gavita Pro 1700e on a spectrometer. The budget unit had a spike in the blue spectrum (400-450nm) but was weak in the deep red (660nm). The Gavita has a much flatter spectrum with better far-red (730nm) for the Emerson effect. Industry data shows that a proper spectrum can increase yield by 15-30% depending on the crop. The budget fixture also failed at 18 months. Gavita's warranty service was fast—replaced the unit in 4 days.
7. How do I calculate my total electrical load when using LED?
Here is a mistake I made: I calculated based on the fixture's 'equivalent' wattage instead of actual draw. A 1000w DE HPS uses roughly 1100w from the wall with ballast loss. A Gavita Pro 1700e draws 645w. That seems like a 40% saving. However, I forgot about the amperage per circuit. 15A circuit at 120V is limited—you can only put about 8-9 of these on residential power. For a commercial greenhouse, you will likely need 208V or 277V. Verify your voltage. I learned this when we tripped a breaker on day one.
8. Should I buy the Gavita Master Controller?
Yes. In my opinion, it is essential for LED. Without it, the LED runs at 100% all the time. You lose the ability to simulate a sunrise/sunset, which reduces plant stress. The controller also tracks power usage. It is a relatively small additional cost for significant control. It is a prime example of process optimization preventing a yield problem.
A lesson learned the hard way. Got questions about setting yours up? I probably made that mistake too.